My muslin showed that not only did I need extra width at the bust line, I'd need to lower the bust point of the pattern about one inch. I've used a couple of different techniques to accomplish this in the past, but here's what I did this time around:
- I drew a line straight across the side front piece starting at the bottom of the arm hole and keeping it perpenidcular to the grain line. (red line)
- I then drew a second line parallel to the first and as far down from it as I wanted to lower the bust point. (green line)
- Next, I cut off a portion of the curve as shown by the blue line in the diagram above.
- I moved this piece down until the red line on it matched up with the green line on the larger piece.
- I taped it in place, making the front curve as smooth as possible. This did involve a little bit of scrunching of the pattern paper...not much, but a little.
It worked like a charm! I now have a bodice pattern that fits me just right.
Unfortunately, my mannequin doesn't fill out the bodice quite like I do, but I'm not about to model this skimpy semi-transparent piece for you. You'll just have to take my word on it!