Part II - Princess Seam Bust Adjustments

In between soccer games, and TV marathons, I squeezed in some sewing time this weekend and made some progress on my Simplicity 1803 dress. I sewed up a muslin of the bodice after making the alterations I described in my previous post. I'm REALLY glad I took the trouble. You see, I generally sew a size 10 for bodices in Simplicity patterns. For this pattern, the measurements were off by one size. What's usually a 10 is a size 12. Once I had that figured out, it was smooth sailing!

My muslin showed that not only did I need extra width at the bust line, I'd need to lower the bust point of the pattern about one inch.  I've used a couple of different techniques to accomplish this in the past, but here's what I did this time around:
  1. I drew a line straight across the side front piece starting at the bottom of the arm hole and keeping it perpenidcular to the grain line. (red line)
  2. I then drew a second line parallel to the first and as far down from it as I wanted to lower the bust point. (green line)
  3. Next, I cut off a portion of the curve as shown by the blue line in the diagram above.sidefront02
  4. I moved this piece down until the red line on it matched up with the green line on the larger piece. 
  5. I taped it in place, making the front curve as smooth as possible. This did involve a little bit of scrunching of the pattern paper...not much, but a little.
It worked like a charm! I now have a bodice pattern that fits me just right.

dress2 008

Unfortunately, my mannequin doesn't fill out the bodice quite like I do, but I'm not about to model this skimpy semi-transparent piece for you. You'll just have to take my word on it!

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